MB&F have unveiled a new edition of their HM5 and on seeing it, I have to admit this piece was born to wear a stealthy cloak.

For those who grew up in the seventies, the HM5 represents the stuff you dreamed of when you were a child – think of sports cars and futuristic gadgets you will see where Max Büsser got the inspiration for his HM5. In the two years since its release there have already been two editions. The first piece had a stark zirconium-clad chassis, next came a much more refined rose gold and titanium edition. Now it’s back, looking entirely at ease with a new darkened appearance.

MB&F HM5 CarbonMacrolon – Child of the Seventies

With its curves, grooves and unexpected features, it is not hard to see how the MB&F HM5 caught everyone’s attention in the first place. This is a highly distinctive and original case shape, and with regard to functionality, it appears to deviate so far from the “normal” that you would be forgiven for thinking that it is of no practical use whatsoever. However, it fulfils its duty by offering up its time indicating porthole at the perfect angle for the wearer, and clever case design and canny choice of construction materials ensure that on the wrist it is not as unwieldy as it looks, and – really, it wears quite beautifully.

This is a mechanically watch with a nod to quartz styling. Time is indicated through a curvy lens with dual mineral glass discs which are horizontally mounted onto the movement. Vertical reflection adds a little magic to the arrangement, enabling the jumping hours and the continuously moving minutes to be viewed through the sapphire crystal prism.

MB&F HM5 CarbonMacrolon – Black To The Future

To create the jet black aesthetics of the new edition MB&F have not simply given it a PVD coating, but instead have added a suitably high-tech ingredient in the form of CarbonMacrolon, a black polycarbonate resin which is injected with carbon nanotubes. This material behaves rather like steel, replicating its strength and allowing for a similar polish, however unlike steel with a coated finish, this case will retain its appearance and even if it is scratched, it will remain black underneath.

The sculpted lines of the complex 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm Giroud-designed case suit their new sultry appearance and wisely MB&F have retained all of the HM5’s unique features. The case-side lever which allows the little light-giving flaps to be opened and closed at will is still in place, as are the superb twin “exhaust pipes” which allow excess moisture to drain from the outer case – only MB&F could take the practicality of water resistance and make it into such an unusual feature. As a final flourish, the beautifully crafted calibre which was developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard now has a purple axe-shaped rotor in harmony with the new vivid hour and minute aperture surrounds. Purple? How very “seventies” and how very “MB&F”.

The MB&F HM5 CM CarbonMacrolon will be limited to 66 pieces priced at $63,000.