A failure of many amateur cooks is to overwhelm a meal with too many flavours. It becomes difficult to ascertain the nuances of each component when the palette is overburdened with too much information. An accomplished chef sources locally, understanding the seasons and appreciating the importance of using only the finest ingredients to create delicious dishes.
Conversely, there is no appeal in consuming the bland and boring.
Indeed, the finest chefs are artisans, skilfully blending flavours to produce a synergistic outcome. Discerning tastebuds can ascertain each element of the culinary composition and appreciate the work that has gone into its creation.
A similar parallel could be applied to creating a watch. On occasion, I have been presented with a horological concoction which sounds impressive on paper but, in reality, is an ill-assorted assemblage of parts. Some brands seem to feel a compunction to offer a “me too” model and, in their haste, create a watch that is difficult to read and is often aesthetically unattractive.
Thankfully, no allegations could be directed towards Glashütte Original. Despite its numerous functions, it blends each element on the dial into a winning formula that engenders admiration.
Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon – The Dial
The hour and minute display are located off-centre. The snailed detail of the dial, in conjunction with the clean minute markings, provides demarcation. The German brand has tastefully used gold applied indexes and matching hour and minute hands, inlaid with Super-LumiNova.
The galvanised silver dial imparts a sense of cleanliness. It quietly contributes to the clarity of each part of the dial.
There is a thread of “form follows function” behind many designs and this bestows a tangible logic to dial layouts. The large date on the PanoLunarTourbillon is eminently legible, owing to its scale, but it is also delightfully elegant. The two date discs collaborate to impart the date. A subtle detail to the date aperture is its stepped profile and it is a telling reminder of the perfection sought by Glashütte Original.
The moon phase indicator, positioned at 2 o’clock, employs a crescent shaped aperture, revealing a nocturnal sky decorated with a golden moon and sparkling stars.
Arguably the highlight of the watch is the flying tourbillon, located in the lower half of the dial. The carriage is filigreed and readily permits viewing of the componentry below. A blued steel tipped seconds hand is affixed to the carriage and interfaces with a snailed scale encircling the tourbillon.
Glashütte Original has successfully married contemporary and traditional design details into a sublime dial display.
Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon – The Case
“Appearances can be deceiving” is a popular idiom that could be applied to the dimensions of the PanoLunarTourbillon. It measures 40mm in diameter but feels larger in reality. Part of the optical illusion may be attributed to the slim profile of the bezel and the cylindrical form of the caseband with its flat vertical sides.
The mix of finishes may be another contributing factor to the deceptive scale of this watch. Whilst upper surfaces are polished red gold, the caseband and vertical sides to the lugs are brushed.
There is much within the case to garner admiring looks. Thankfully, Glashütte Original does not shortchange the wearer, according a superb view of the self-winding movement within, courtesy of an exhibition caseback.
Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon – The Movement
The manufacture movement, the Calibre 93-02, stands testament to the accomplished skill of Glashütte Original. The three-quarter plate is decorated with Glashütte ribbing and includes 48 jewels and 2 diamonds within its impressive specification.
Glashütte Original does not obscure the view of the beautiful movement with a large oscillating weight. It uses an off-centre open-worked rotor, allowing the wearer to see much of the fine detail beneath. Attached to the rim of the rotor, using four screws, is a delightful 21-carat gold mass that runs within a circular channel on the movement.
A cartouche, engraved, “Flying Tourbillon” is attached to the three quarter plate, paying due reverence to Alfred Helwig’s preferred version of the tourbillon.
When handling the PanoLunarTourbillon, I found I would repeatedly tilt the watch beneath a fluorescent light to illuminate different details of the Calibre 93-02. Every angle of inclination exposed more of the flawless finish within. Blued screws, bevelled edges and polished steel sit adjacent each other in refined splendour.
Admiring the oscillating system, at the front of the dial, the screwed balance can be seen and, thanks to its eight regulating screws and 12 weighted screws, it allows optimum poising.
Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon – Conclusion
I confess to being a huge fan of watches from Glashütte. Whilst there are many Swiss watches I like, the styling of German watches is different. I wouldn’t say better or worse, but definitely different.
Glashütte Original create some superb watches and the PanoLunarTourbillon is clearly no exception. There are many models within the range I would gladly like to own. Often, I restrict writing about timepieces which have various attributes that justify my efforts. Indeed, there are numerous watches that I like. However, few watches are without any flaws. There is invariably a small detail which you wish was different.
I have expended much time contemplating the Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon and trying to bring to the fore of my mind any perceived weaknesses with this timepiece. Quite simply, I cannot. The design and execution of this timepiece provides a winning recipe worthy of any Michelin-star chef.
Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon – Technical Specification
- 18-carat red gold,
- Diameter 40mm,
- Height 13.10mm,
- Water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres)
- Sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Small Seconds on the Tourbillon cage,
- Panorama Date,
- Flying Tourbillon,
- Moon phase indicator.
- Calibre 93-02,
- Self-winding movement,
- Frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz),
- 48 jewels + 2 diamond endstones
- Power reserve 48 hours
Strap: Brown Louisiana alligator leather strap presented on a 18-carat pink gold folding clasp
More resources about the Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon on the Official Glashutte Original Website.